• Eyeglasses
• Hearing aid batteries
• First-aid supplies
• Baby formulas and supplies
• Supply of non-perishable food
• Pet food
• Water purification tablets or 5.25% sodium hypochlorite liquid bleach laundry bleach for purifying drinking water
• Sanitary and toilet supplies
• Flashlight, batteries, and bulbs
• Battery operated portable radio
• Tools - shovel, hammer, pliers, screw driver, axe
• Blankets
• Dry clothing (especially shoes and socks).
• Rubber boots, gloves, and hard hat
• Important papers
• Bank books and check book
• Valuables and cherished articles (jewelry), pictures
• Games for group play for children and adults

Utilities

Electrical System
The flow of electricity through you home is controlled by either plug fuses (Figure 3-1) or circuit breakers (Figure 3-2) located within a panelboard mounted on the wall.

Open the panelboard door and identify what part of the system each plug fuse or circuit breaker controls. This information may be on the back of the panelboard door already. If it isn't available, experiment by removing each fuse or switching to OFF each circuit breaker at a time. Then determine which lights, appliances, and outlets are controlled by that fuse or circuit breaker. Write this information on a sheet of paper to take with you when you evacuate or put in a place above the anticipated flood water level. Replace the fuse or switch the circuit breaker back to ON, and repeat the process until the entire electrical system of your home has been checked. CAUTION: Some appliances contain compressors (air-conditioners, refrigerators, freezers) that may have to rest a short time (5 minutes) before being turned on again to avoid blowing the fuse or opening the circuit.

If flooding is imminent, remove (don't just loosen) all fuses, including the one at the main switch and at the range switch, and put them in a place above anticipated flood water level. This will minimize the danger of short circuits when the power company returns service to your home after the flood.

If you have circuit breaker panelboard, switch each circuit breaker to the OFF position.

Gas
Close main gas valve. This valve is generally located on the gas piping just prior to its entry into the gas meter.

Water
Close main water valve. It usually is found on the exterior wall or on the floor of the lowest level of your home where the water supply enters.

Drinking water can be stored in a clean and covered bathtub or in the hot water tank. If the hot water tank valves are turned off and no heat is supplied to the tank, flood water cannot enter the tank.

Fuel Tanks
Anchor fuel tanks to prevent them from overturning or floating. Close fuel tank valves to prevent leaks, spills and flood water infiltration.

General Actions

Move as many household items as possible to as high a place as possible. Place furniture on beds and then personal items on the furniture. Also, items could be placed on the roof and covered with polyethylene sheet stapled in place using thin strips of wood or heavy cardboard. CAUTION: Your roof or upper floor may no be able to safely support the additional weight of heavy equipment or furniture.

Include cardboard boxes and newspapers as items to be moved to higher ground. Such material disintegrate and clog drains when flood waters recede.

Anchor, secure, or weigh-down any items that may become debris or battering rams in moving water; for example, tie furniture and personal items on top of a bed to the bed and then anchor the bed tying it to the house structure.

Remove all wood drawers, even though empty, from built-ins (e.g., cabinets) and furniture (e.g., dressers) because wood swells when wet and the resulting pressure between the drawers and their containers can damage wood fibers.

Remove light bulbs from permanently mounted light fixtures below flood level to prevent their breakage. Put the light bulbs and other glass items in plastic bags to prevent glass form shattering and spreading if the item is broken.

Protect valuable machinery and equipment that cannot be relocated by enclosing them in waterproof covers (Figure 3-3 on page 3-3), or by coating them with water repellent grease to minimize damage and to facilitate cleaning and return to operation (if practical, consider encircling such equipment with a wall of sandbags).

Relocate chemicals that react with water to give off heat or form explosive or toxic gases and chemicals such as weed killers and potassium to the highest level in your home and ensure that they are in waterproof containers. This will prevent safety hazards, pollution, or damage to materials in your home.

Remove and dispose of perishable food items in cabinets, refrigerators, and indoor trash cans or place in plastic bags or containers and seal shut. Tie shut and anchor outdoor garbage cans to minimize spread of disease and unsanitary conditions. Tie down loose items in the yard to prevent them from being carried away by flood water or battered against other items or structures.

If you have a boat, move it in such a way that you can gain access to it easily during the flood.

The Structure

Only a qualified structural engineer can tell you whether your basement can or cannot withstand anticipated flood-water levels.
Allow Water into Basements
If a structural engineer has not checked your house to determine its structural soundness or has determined your house to be structurally incapable of withstanding the added forces created by the buildup of flood waters on the outside, the following actions should be taken:
Open all windows, prop open all doors to the outside, to rooms and closets, and to garage to allow water to enter unimpeded. Equal pressure inside and outside lessen the chance of structural damage to your home from hydrostatic pressure and prevents it from lifting off its foundation or tipping over in most cases.
You can knock small holes in your concrete block basement walls about 1 foot above ground level to allow water to fill the basement and equalize interior and exterior pressure. Use a hammer and cold chisel. The cold chisel should be longer than the block is wide. Holes can be patched after the flood has passed. Running tap water into the basement is slower, but if there is time, this is preferred as it is cleaner. Cover the glass open windows with cardboard or heavy plastic to prevent the glass from shattering and spreading. Do not obstruct the window openings or prevent water from passing.

Keep Water Out of Basements
If a qualified structural engineer has determined your house to be capable of withstanding anticipated flood-water depths, the following actions can be taken:
Close all windows and doors and cover them with polyethylene sheet and boards, plywood or previously-fitted closure panels. Place sandbags and/or shoveled dirt in front of doorways and more vulnerable areas of your home to keep the water away from more vulnerable areas of your home to keep the water away from them. Sandbags can be made with burlap or other strong material that will not dissolve in water or break when being carried. They can be filled with sand or dirt. you can also keep flood waters away from your house by surrounding it with a temporary levee. If you have a sump pump, check it to be sure it is operating properly. See Pages 5-2 and 5-4.

Sewer and Drainage Lines

Flooding of a home as a result of backup through sewer and drainage lines is a problem for buildings located in the flood plains. Sewer backup can flood the basement and even the upper floors with raw sewage. Backup caused by flood waters over-loading sewer lines to the extent that they can no longer carry off the sewage by gravity flow. Sewage in the lines then seeks its new level which may be above the level of household drains. Backflow pressure reverses normal flow and raw sewage runs from floor drains, toilets, tubs, sinks, basins, and appliances.

To avoid this backflow of sewage, it is necessary to close off all of these entries into the house. Many of these are difficult to close. For example, stopping the wash basin drain does not stop the basin overflow from carrying backflow into the house. The basin, therefore, must be plugged at the trap fitting. This could be done by removing the trap from under the basin and plugging the sewer side of the drain pipe. A more effective method, however, is to install a backflow valve on the main sewer outlet line as described on pages 5-5 through 5-6.

Appliances

Disconnect and store small, transportable appliances (toasters, blenders, percolators, and other electrical devices) at the highest possible level (e.g., second floor or attic). If possible and if time permits, wrap these appliances and others in plastic and tie as shown in Figure 3-3 (for a large appliance).

Seal openings of the large appliances with wide tape such as masking or waterproof adhesive tape (be liberal), tie shut, and anchor these appliances, leave them open to allow water into the interior t prevent buoyancy. NOTE: Top loading dishwashers and clothes washers should first be filled and weighted down with clean water to prevent buoyancy. Dryers can be weighted down with sandbags. Freezers can be weighted down with food and then sealed and anchored.

Disconnect heavy, unmovable appliances because when the electrical service is being returned to your home after a flood, all appliances must be disconnected to facilitate determining whether any electrical problems are the fault of the electrical distribution system or appliance. Due to water debris or wreckage, getting to electrical outlets to disconnect appliances after a flood may be difficult as well as dangerous.

Remove, if time and manpower permit, electrical motors from washers and dryers (those from dishwashers are usually difficult to remove due to their integral attachment to the pump), seal in plastic bags, and take to a higher level with small appliances. Motors are sensitive to water and are expensive to recondition. If a sump pump is used in the basement, remove and store it in a safe dry place above anticipated flood level. This will make the pump available when you return for use in pumping out any water remaining in the basement.

If you have a second floor that is expected to stay dry, carry as many belongings as possible upstairs, but be careful not to overload it.

If flood water is expected to rise able table height on your first floor, prop open all doors to all rooms and to the outside and open all windows to allow water to flow freely throughout your home. An equal water level inside and outside will cancel hydrostatic pressure on the walls and floors and lessen changes of major structural damage on your home. A house so filled with water is not likely to lift off its foundation or tip over.


 To prevent sewage backflow from the main sewer line during a flood, two principal types of backflow valves are used - the check valve, sometimes called a backwater valve (Figure 5-9), and the gate valve (Figure 5-10),

A check valve will permit sewage to flow outward but will not allow backflow. Unfortunately, a check valve requires frequent cleaning and maintenance to remain effective. This maintenance is beyond the ability of the average homeowner. Consequently, the reliability of a check valve for residential use is open to question.

A gate valve is a manually operated valve which shuts off backflow and simultaneously shuts down the entire house sewer system. It does not require the frequent cleaning and maintenance of a check valve.

A third type of valve combines the check valve with a manually operated gate valve. This provides automatic check valve protection combined with the positive automatic check valve protection combined with the positive operation of the manual gate valve. This duel option may be expensive. See Figure 5-11.



Sewer Backup

Although more common in communities that have a combined sanitary and storm sewer system, sewer backup can occur where there are separate systems. It can be caused by two things:

1: The sewer lines on your property are broken, clogged with roots or debris, or directly connected to your roof or footing drains, when heavy rain occurs, the lines cannot carry the additional water, so it backs up into your basement. If this is the case of your flooded basement, you can fix the problem relatively easily. Contact a plumber or contractor.

Tree roots can become entangled in sewer lines, thus clogging pipes and causing sewer backups




2. The sewer system cannot handle the extra water during a heavy rain or flood. Because of cross connections, inadequate design, too many new houses, or some other reason, the sewer mains become over loaded and back up into your basement.

If this is the cause of your sewer backup, you can take either of two actions:
-Let the sewer back up and adjust our basement property so it is not damaged (see previous section on wet floodproofing).
-Try to keep the sewer from backing up. The rest of this section will deal with this subject.
City sewer systems may become overloaded and back up into your own system

Plugs: Since the basement floor drain is the lowest point in your house, it is the first place of entry for backed-up sewers. The drain can be closed with a rubber or wooden plug during heavy rains. Some drains are threaded for a screw-in plug.
This is the simplest and cheapest way to stop sewer backup. However, the sewer could back up into the next higher opening, probably a sink drain or toilet. See also the discussion on pressures, below.
Standpipe, a pipe inserted or screwed into the floor drain will allow the sewer back up to seek its own level. This method may be more dependable than a plug that could pop out. 
However, it has the same shortcomings as a plug.
A standpipe allows backed up sewer water to seek its own level without spilling into the house


Valves: A back up valve installed in the sewer line is more expensive but it will not permit the sewer to back up into your basement. A valve should be placed outside your house where it would be easier to install and maintain. A valve can be manual or automatic.

A manual valve can keep sewer water from backing up into the house





Valves can be jammed open by debris. This is less likely in a manual valve but manual valves have been known to "freeze up". If they are not turned periodically. Both types of valves should have a manhole or other access so they can be cleaned out or repaired.

An automatic backup valve installed in the floor drain can prohibit sewage from backing up into the house





Overhead sewer: This is the most expensive but the most dependable and convenient method. Your sewer line would have to be rebuilt so that all house sewage drains to a pump. Sewage is then pumped up to the height of the sewer system's manhole or inlets. From this height, it flows by gravity into the street before it could get high enough to back up into your house.

An overhead sewer line works like a standpipe by letting water seek its own level within the pipes




Pressures: If you use any of these methods, you should account for two types of water pressure:

1. Your sewer pipes are probable made of clay and were not designed to operate under pressure. Once they become filled up, a valve or plug could create enough pressure to break the pipe. A standpipe or overhead sewer will not relieve this pressure (the pressure at the bottom of the four foot column of water is 
62.5 lbs/Ft3 x 7 Ft. = 250 pounds per square foot).

The best way to deal with this pressure is to minimize the amount of sewer line exposed to the pressure. This could be done by installing a back up valve near your property line. Of coarse, this merely transfers the problem to the city. Because of this, some communities prohibit back valves.

2. If the ground under your house becomes saturated, the water will push up on your basement floor. The efforts of this uplift pressure and preventing measures were discussed under dry floodproofing. A plug or standpipe are more likely to cause a crack in the line under your house. The newer the sewer line, the less likely it is to leak. You may want to permit the basement to flood a little to help equalize the pressures on your floors.

Advantages of Stopping Sewer Back-up
Your basement will stay dry (assuming the flood waters do not get in through the walls or windows).
If water depths are less than a foot, they can be handled cheaply with a plug or standpipe.

Problems with Stopping Sewer Build-up.
Most of the methods require human intervention.
Overhead sewers require a pump that needs continuous power or a back-up system in case of power failure.
There will be no reduction of regular program insurance rates.
If the pressure is permitted to break the sewer lines, or buckle your floor, you may have a more expensive repair job than if your basement were allowed to flood.
Unless you install an overhead system, you cannot use your sewers during high waters.
Some methods may be prohibited by local ordinance.

Costs: Because the cheaper methods can cause greater pressures, consult a plumber contractor. Costs vary according to which method is used.