Emergency Action Information

Allow Water in Basements

• Open all windows.
• Prop open all doors to the outside, to rooms and closets, and to the garage to allow water to enter unimpeded.

• Equal pressure inside and outside lessens the chance of structural damage to your home from hydrostatic pressure and prevents it from lifting off its foundation or tipping over in most cases.
• Use a hammer and cold chisel to knock small holes in your concrete blcok basement walls about 1-foot above ground level to allow water to fill the basement and equalize interior and exterior pressure.

·         

• The chisel should be longer than the block is wide.
• Holes can be patched after the flood has passed.
• If you have time, run tap water into the basement.

• This is slower, but is the preferred method because it is cleaner.
• Cover glass open windows with cardboard or heavy plastic to prevent shattering and spreading.
• Do not obstruct the window openings, or prevent water from passing.

Keep Water out of Basements

• Close all windows and doors.
• Cover all windows and doors with polyethylene sheet and boards, plywood or previously-fitted closure panels.
• Place sandbags and/or shoveled dirt in front of doorways and more vulnerable areas of your home to keep the water away.
• Sandbags can be made with burlap or other strong material that will not dissolve in water or break when being carried.
• Sandbags can be filled with sand or dirt.
• If you have a sump pump, check it to make sure it is operating properly.

A back up valve installed in the sewer line is more expensive, but will not permit the sewer to back up into your basement. A valve should be placed outside your house where it would be easier to install and maintain. A valve can be manual or automatic.

A check valve will permit sewage to flow outward, but not allow backflow.

• Unfortunately, a check valve requires a frequent cleaning and maintenance to remain effective which is often beyond the ability of the average homeowner.
• Consequently, the reliability of a check valve for residential use is open to question.

A gate valve is a manually operated valve which shuts off backflow and simultaneously shuts down the entire house sewer system.

• • It does not require frequent cleaning and maintenance.

The dual backflow valve combines the check valve with a manually operated gate valve

• This provides automatic check valve protection combined with the positive operation of the manual gate valve.
• This dual option may be expensive.

Overhead Sewer

An overhead sewer line works like a standpipe by letting water seek its own level within the pipes. Your sewer link would have to be re-built so that all house sewage drains to a pump. Sewage is then pumped up to the height of the sewer system's manhole or inlets. From there, it flows by gravity into the street before it could get high enough to back up into your house.

• This is the most expensive, but most dependable and convenient method.

Plugs

Since the basement floor drain is the lowest point in your house, it is the first place of entry for backed-up sewers. The drain can be closed with a rubber or wooden plug during heavy rains, which is the simplest and cheapest way to stop sewer backup. Some drains are threaded for a screw-in plug.

• However, the sewer could back up into the next higher opening, probably a sink drain or toilet.
• A standpipe, or a pipe inserted or screwed into the floor drain, will allow the sewer back up to seek its own level.
• This method may be more dependable than a plug that could pop out.
• However, it has the same shortcomings as a plug.

 Damage Control

While sewer back up is more common in communities with a combined sanitary and storm sewer system, sewer backup can occur when there are separate systems. Below are instructions on how to fix the 2 most common situations concerning sewer back up:

PROBLEM #1: The sewer lines on your property are broken, clogged with roots or debris or directly connected to your roof or footing drains. When heavy rain occurs, the lines cannot carry the additional water so it backs up into your basement. Tree roots can also become entangled in sewer lines, thus clogging pipes and causing sewer backups

SOLUTION:
If this is the cause of your flooded basement, you can fix the problem relatively easily by contacting a plumber or contractor.

PROBLEM #2: The sewer system cannot handle the extra water during a heavy rain or flood. Because of cross connections, inadequate design, too many new houses or some other reason, the sewer mains become over loaded and back up into your basement.

SOLUTION: If this is the cause of your sewer back up, you can do one of 2 actions.

1. Let the sewer back up and adjust our basement properly so it is not damaged (look at wet floodproofing section).
2. Try to keep the sewer from backing up. Refer to our Prevention section.

It is important to know there are both advantages and disadvantages into stopping sewer back up on your own:

Advantages of Stopping Sewer Back Up

• Your basement will stay dry 
  (assuming the flood waters do not get in through the walls or windows.)

If water depths are less than a foot, they can be handled cheaply with a plug or a standpipe.

Disadvantages of Stopping Sewer Back Up

• Most methods require human intervention.
• Overhead sewers require a pump that needs continuous power or a back-up system in case of power failure.
• There will be no reduction of regular program insurance rates.
• If the pressure is permitted to break the sewer lines or buckle your floor, you may have a more expensive repair job than if your basement was allowed to flood.
• Unless you install an overhead system, you cannot use your sewers during high waters.
• Because the cheaper methods can cause greater pressures, costs are expensive for the most effective measures. Consult a plumber contractor.

***Check what your local ordinances say about stopping sewer build-up because it may be prohibited. ***

Pressures

If you use any of these prevention methods, you should account for two types of water pressure:

PROBLEM #1: Your sewer pipes are probably made of clay and were not designed to operate under pressure. Once they become filled up, a valve or plug could create enough pressure to break the pipe. A standpipe or overhead sewer WILL NOT relieve this pressure.

SOLUTION: The best way to deal with this pressure is to minimize the amount of sewer line exposed to the pressure. This could be done by installing a back-up valve near your property line. Of course, this merely transfers the problem to the city. Check with your community before installing a back-up valve because some prohibit them.

PROBLEM #2: If the ground under your house becomes saturated, the water will push up on your basement floor.

SOLUTION: The newer the sewer line, the less likely it is to leak. You may want to permit the basement to flood a little to help equalize the pressures on your floors

Return to Top 

Appliances 

• Disconnect and store small, transportable appliances (toasters, blenders, percolators and other electrical devices) at the highest possible level (second floor or attic). If time permits, wrap these appliances and others in plastic and tie as shown in Figure 3-3.
• Seal openings of large appliances with wide tape such as masking or waterproof adhesive tape.
• Tie shut and anchor these appliances. Leave them open to allow water into the interior to prevent buoyancy.

• Top loading dishwashers and clothes washers should first be filled and weighted down with clean water to prevent buoyancy.
• Dryers can be weighted down with sandbags.
• Freezers can be weighted down with food, then sealed and anchored.

• Disconnect heavy, unmovable appliances.

• When electrical service is being returned after a flood, all appliances must be disconnected to determine whether any electrical problems are the fault of electrical distribution system or appliance.
• Due to water debris or wreckage, getting to electrical outlets to disconnect appliance after a flood may be difficult as well as dangerous.

• If time and manpower permit, remove electrical motors from washers and dryers.

• Motors from dishwashers are usually difficult to remove due to their integral attachment to the pump.
• Seal these motors in plastic bags and take to a higher level.
• Motors are sensitive to water and are expensive to recondition.

• If a sump pump is used in the basement, remove and store it in a safe, dry place above anticipated flood level.

• This will make the pump available when you return for use in pumping out any water remaining in the basement.

• If you have a second floor that is expected to stay dry, carry as many belongings as possible upstairs. However, be careful to not overload it.
• If flood water is expected to rise above table height on your first floor, prop open all room doors to the outside and open all windows to allow water to flow freely throughout your home.

• An equal water level inside and outside will cancel hydrostatic pressure on the walls and floors and decrease chances of major structural damage on your home.

• A house so filled with water is not likely to lift off its foundation or tip over.